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Peugeot 106 Zest 2 Diesel starting problems

Messages 1 to 16 of 16.

Oliver
Joined Mar 2005
4 posts

Regularrly when trying to start the car turns over but will not start. You can repeat for half an hour and eventually the car will start. When you try to start the car it may start first time, the time of the day doesnt matter or the external temperature. Once started the car runs perfectly. You could drive 10 miles stop and go in a shop, come out and the car wont start. It is not as initially thought caused by air in the fuel. Could it be an immobiliser problem? or is there any other advice I could try.

Tuesday, 1 March 2005

Discussion Archived

moz
Joined Dec 2004
701 posts

hi could be your fuel cut off solenoid playing up ....moz

Tuesday, 1 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Al's Pug
Joined Feb 2005
2346 posts

How to check your ‘Stop solenoid’ I assume that you can find it,
Firstly lets check for current supply; follow the little wire coming out of it back to the connector, (about 4 – 41/2 inches up the wire) undo this connector and insert a test light, switch on ignition (don’t try to start coz it won’t) light should light up, switch off ignition light should go out. If this happens as above then your current supply circuit is ok.
Next step is to check the solenoid without disturbing it (I’ll explain why further on). Remove the test light from the circuit and hold the two wires one in each hand have an assistant turn on the ignition wait for the heater plug solenoid to
Click in and out, then by touching the two wires together listen for the solenoid to click, repeat a few times in case you missed it, it is not very loud. If you cannot hear it or are in doubt here is how to remove it. CLEAN AROUND IT PROPERLY so no c**p or debris can get into the pump, if the rubber boot is still present you will have to lift this up first , when you are sure that no muck of any kind is near solenoid put a deep socket over it and undo it (23 mm socket). Do not remove yet, take socket off the solenoid and lift carefully with one hand (there is a small O ring that can get damaged) and have a finger of the other hand ready to place under the plunger when revealed, be careful not to drop either the plunger or the small spring above it in the housing (they are loose) .
Now you can test it again outside of the injector pump. Hold the solenoid vertically, holding a finger under the plunger loosely (don’t’ push it up) put a jump wire from the – terminal to the body of the solenoid and then touch the terminal to the + terminal briefly, you should now feel the plunger lift off the finger it was resting on and then drop back onto it when break the circuit. Repeat this a few times just to make sure for intermittency. If it works carefully refit it back into the injector pump. Make sure nothing drops down the hole and carefully lower the solenoid so you do not damage the sealing washer in the hole or the rubber O ring . Re connect the solenoid and engine should now start. (sometimes, this removing and re fitting can make a sticking solenoid work again). If the solenoid fails to operate at all then it has had it, it cannot be repaired. You have now no options but to buy a new one (about £30 from E C P). If you need a temporary fix (not a long term one) you can re fit the solenoid minus the plunger and spring. You can not now however stop the engine using the ignition key. You will have to stall it using the clutch and brake. (like you used to do when learning to drive, but it’s a lot harder when you are deliberately trying to do it) , or you can use the emergency stop leaver on the injector pump.

Tuesday, 1 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Oliver
Joined Mar 2005
4 posts

Thanks I will check that out this evening. Unfortunalely if it is in one of its starting first time moods I will have to await a further opportunity to prove the point. I will post again eitherway.

Tuesday, 1 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Al's Pug
Joined Feb 2005
2346 posts

WHERE IN THE COUNTRY ARE YOU ?

Tuesday, 1 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Oliver
Joined Mar 2005
4 posts

N. Ireland.
Sods law it started first time last night but at least I got to listen to the clicks and will now know if there is a click or not when it fails to start.

Wednesday, 2 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Al's Pug
Joined Feb 2005
2346 posts

OK

now you just need to re do that check next time it wont start, and
see if that is the reason for it not to start.

Thursday, 3 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Oliver
Joined Mar 2005
4 posts

There was an imobiliser attached to the fuel pump. The imobiliser worked and wouldnt come off. Upon extra effort being applied to remove imobiliser damage was done to it and fuelpump. A second hand fuel pump later with the imobiliser removed and directly wired to stop solainoid problem resolved. Many thanks for assistance

Wednesday, 16 March 2005

Discussion Archived

KC
Joined Mar 2005
2 posts

I have had the same problem with my 106.
It can start straight away or take half an hour.

Can anyone tell me where the 'stop solenoid' is because the pump in the haynes manual bares no relation to the one in my car.

PS is the imobiliser the black plastic box fastened down with 2 torque screws on top of the pump.

Thursday, 31 March 2005

Discussion Archived

madmark
Joined Apr 2005
379 posts

the stop solenoid is underneath the gold coloured metal cover on the rear of the pump. a right sod to get off .pump needs to be removed to gain access to the shear bolts holding it on ,also a metal roll pin needs to be removed to allow cover removal

Friday, 1 April 2005

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KC
Joined Mar 2005
2 posts

Thanks for the info Mark!!

KC

Friday, 1 April 2005

Discussion Archived

andy
Joined Apr 2005
2 posts

I,ve got a 1997 peugeot 106 xnd and also having starting problems . I,ve removed the metal cover and taken the plunger out of the stop solenoid , the car starts and runs ok but i have to stall it to stop it. I,ve been told by a dealer that you cannot just buy a solenoid and that it needs a kit at £226 plus labour. can anyone advise me please.

Sunday, 17 April 2005

Discussion Archived

madmark
Joined Apr 2005
379 posts

just fit a standard stop soleniod and alter the wiring to suit (have done this ma ny times in the past

Monday, 18 April 2005

Discussion Archived

glenfraser
Joined Apr 2005
2 posts

Hi there i had the same problem here goes. The thing wouldnt start every so often. After going backwards and forwards i found after they had changed the heater box that the volts would disapear from the glow plugs every so often they reapear. We thought it was the heater box as everything inside the car ie glow plug light goes out after its heated and alarm keypad looks as though it operates ok. So it would start most of the time then not others or so you say after half an hour etc.

The fault i found was in the wire harness. The black conector on the right hand side just infront of the battary. Black plasitc outer with all the wires in. UNSCREW the conectors and look inside. You soon see the burn. It connects the harness to the engine harness.
When i opened it there was a bad connection which had burnt a bit. I put a bypass on the wire from one side to the other. This fixed that problem. It causes an intermitent fault. You cant however bypass the whole wire. Itryed this at first but there is a diode i think in there which stops it starting. So just do the bypass before and after the plug and socket.

This first looks like its the bosch fuel pump and alarm bit which is behind it. But its not. Save some money and look at that socket and plug first. I spent loads of money with this going backwards to my dealer......

It was a nasty fault. My wife would go to work and then when she came out would not start. Some times she would call out the aa and by the time they got there it would start sometimes it wouldnt. Then it got towed to the dealer who said they had fixed it. Another month or 2 later and it would fail again.

Have fun

Glen

Saturday, 30 April 2005
Edited Saturday, 30 April 2005

Discussion Archived

robollox
Joined May 2005
1 posts

Hi. My girlfriend drove a 306 lxdt 150 miles home after buying it, with no problems. Now it won't start. This has a 'yellow' cadmium plate over the stop solenoid which does appear to be, 'pump-out' to get to it. (only after wasting an hour removing elusive security screws before realising it's pretty major) There are 4 wires to it, ignition on, wires 1 & 2, 12v, wires 3 & 4, 12v. Would that be correct? (can't hear it operating possibly cos it's covered up) Also theres a 3" solenoid on the front of the pump, which does work, but the gound wire to it is connected to a switch on the end of a cable directly below the accelerator cable which seems to have little or no travel. (fast idle lever according to the Haines manual)Any ideas if this switch is to be made, to operate the front solenoid (switch is not closed with ignition on or off, hence front mounted, easily accessible, solenoid is not operated) Any help would be appreciated. If the problem is the stop solenoid at the back, I'll probably have to bite the bullet & get it to a garage. P.S. I knew I shouldn't have wasted £16 on a Haines comic book!

Sunday, 1 May 2005

Discussion Archived

Gwaygway
Joined May 2005
6 posts

beware whilst are the worn ignition switch which robs the valve of current whilst turning over the starter , I had this touble for along time on my mk 1 golf until i found the voltage drop with a multi meter. It used to bump every time but that was nt practical.
gwaygway

Thursday, 5 May 2005

Discussion Archived

Messages 1 to 16 of 16.


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