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ALL CARVER CASCADE WATER HEATER, GAS FIRE, FANMASTER,P4 QUESTIONS HERE

Showing results 1 to 20 of 4052.

Dave
Joined Oct 2004
15 posts

I realise that there have been previous entries about this appliance, but I think a general open one would benefit most members.

My Cascade 2 was working fine on gas (it's not the GE model), but after towing it through extremely wet weather last weekend it seems to have gone on the blink. Although there is plenty of gas and the battery is well charged, the red light comes on at the end of the ignition period. I can hear the igniter clicking and hear the gas light up. I then hear a little pop at the end of the cycle - which I assume is the gas valve shutting off again. It seems as though it is lighting, but that the control unit is not detecting this. Has anyone else had a similiar problem with the unit ? Is it still possible to get hold of a workshop manual for the unit ?

Monday, 25 October 2004

Discussion Archived

gary
Joined Mar 2002
2443 posts

The weather could well have something to do with it, damp will have this effect. What is happening is the electronic flame sensor is not reconising the flame has lit and shutting down as though it hadn't lit. Depends just how water hits the flue cowl but it is quite possible for water to get from here all the way inside the black box which is under the heater and inside the van.
Solution I hope is to remove the 'burner module' open up the attached black box and dry it out, removing any corrosion that has already occured with a brass brush. Leaving it more than a few days can be to late. It could also be build up of water in the burner itself but this should have drained away quite quickly and not cause lasting harm.
After turning the gas off, removal is from outside behind the outer plastic flue cowl and an inner aluminumn plate. Behind these in the bottom righthand corner are two 'cross head' screws, undue these and the module slides out. Any resistance means the box lid inside has sprung open and will need to be squeesed shut from inside to get it started though the hole, the electrical connection can then be pulled free. Remember the two screws are also holding the gas joint so care should be taken when replacing, also ensure when refitted, the black foam seal and bracket at the back of burner is as high as possible and parallel to the top of the recess in which it fits.

Monday, 25 October 2004

Discussion Archived

Dave
Joined Oct 2004
15 posts

Incidently does anyone have a copy of the workshop manual. I do have the owner's and installation manuals, but these don't really tell me much. Even a large exploded parts diagram (and key) would be useful. I'd be quite happy to pay for a photocopy and send an SAE.

Tuesday, 26 October 2004

Discussion Archived

Dave
Joined Oct 2004
15 posts

I removed the cowl and cover plate over the weekend and tried lighting the heater. I think there must have been some water in the burner because it wasn't lighting evenly - rather like a hob ring doesn't when you've spilt water on it. I dried it out and refitted it - the control box seemed fine. I then tried the ignition switch and the burner lit up fine with even blue flames and stayed on. I refitted the plate and cowl and it seems fine again.
Thank Gary.

Monday, 1 November 2004

Discussion Archived

leigh
Joined Nov 2004
1 posts

Hi Dave.
I had exactly the same problem.
Being of an inquisative nature i decided to take the heater to bits, when i got it open i found that the burner had completely rusted through. The heater has a flame detection sensor which shuts the gas off and puts the unit in to failure mode (red light on) when no flame is detected. Although the gas was igniting, due to the burner having large holes in it the flame wasn't burning at the position of the sensor, so no flame detected thus it shut it's self down after the initial ignition cycle.
I made a new burner out of copper pipe connectors which works quite well, but theres a company called "Read caravans"situated in leeds and Blackburn which might be able to help you out.
web address "http://www.read-caravans.com"
Happy hunting
Leigh

Friday, 19 November 2004

Discussion Archived

Brainbender
Joined Dec 2004
2 posts

Hi
It was interesting to read about the burner , my trouble is the copper water tank has blown off the heater assembly caused by the central tie rod corroding. Any idea if this can be repaired .

Thursday, 9 December 2004

Discussion Archived

gary
Joined Mar 2002
2443 posts

Yes no problem at all I do dozens a year as it is quite common.
Hardest part will be removing the broken part from the heat exchanger if it's snapped at that end, easy if you know how but make a mess of it and it gets a lot more complicated. You need to check the tank where the tie rod comes though to make sure it is flat around the hole otherwise this will need straightening before re-assembly. I can supply all you need, or do the job for you though the post and return with a warranty.
Gary, http://www.arcsystems.biz

Thursday, 9 December 2004

Discussion Archived

Brainbender
Joined Dec 2004
2 posts

Brilliant, it has corroded and sheared off at the heat exchanger end. Only a large but thin o ring makes me think it will be difficult to get a good seal.
Tank has some corrosion in two small areas ( 8 years old).
Will investigate more over the weekend.
I am in Devon where are you based ?.

Thursday, 9 December 2004

Discussion Archived

gary
Joined Mar 2002
2443 posts

I am in Nottingham check the address and telephone numbers on the website.
Done a few from the west country lately...must be something in the water this year?
Gary

Friday, 10 December 2004

Discussion Archived

JACKY
Joined Mar 2005
3 posts

CAN ANYBODY HELP ME WITH REGARDS TO MY CARAVAN CASCADE 2 WATER HEATER.
NEVER HAVING HAD A HOT WATER SYSTEM BEFORE I CAN ONLY GO ON WHAT I HAVE BEEN TOLD.
SHOULD THE HOT WATER TANK AUTOMATICALLY FILL UP WHEN THE PUMP IS CONNECTED AND TURNED ON. OR DO I NEED TO TURN MY HOT WATER TAP ON IN ORDER TO PULL THE WATER THROUGH.
I WOULD APPRECIATE ANY INFORMATION I CAN BE GIVEN, AS I HAVE BEEN TOLD IT SHOULD AUTOMATICALLY FILL WITHOUT THE TAP BEING TURNED ON BUT THIS DOES NOT HAPPEN.

Wednesday, 9 March 2005

Discussion Archived

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metz
Joined Dec 2004
41 posts

Hi Jacky, Yes you need to have the hot water tap open whilst the tank fills, you need to run the tap until you get a nice even flow of water, if you've got a hot tap in the bathroom make sure the water flows evenly fron that too, then you can safely light the heater.

Wednesday, 9 March 2005

Discussion Archived

gary
Joined Mar 2002
2443 posts

You must have a hot tap open Jackie or the air in the tank has nowhere to get out at the top as the cold water tries to come in at the bottom. When water flows freely without spluttering from a hot tap then you will know the tank is full and the air removed. A problem with carver cascade 2's at this time of year is bit of frost damage to the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet connection at the bottom right hand corner of the heater. If frost damages this valve it tends to stick and prevent water coming from the hot tap as no water can enter at the bottom to push it out the top, the only real solution is to replace the connection complete with the valve. In winter always leave the drain bung loose in it's hole so water can always drain away and prevent this happening.
This lot below will give you a good idea how the heater is meant to work.

The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (660w 3amp to 970w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch with three lights, green amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light, indicating a fault. Forget the amber light, it’s to show low voltage and won’t light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it ‘flash’ as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v emersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it’s “on”, not that it’s working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have “tripped” Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable, but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box, sometimes behind a flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the “Burner Module”. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it, and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it’s a 5 minute job to replace it, either with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner putting the flame out, this will render things safe, but will probably require a new module because it’s control circuitry will be faulty,. A point to note here is that over time the wax degrades or the threads leak, allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust prematurely, eventually this will require replacement of the whole burner module.
That in a nut shell as they say, is all there is to it.

Wednesday, 9 March 2005

Discussion Archived

JACKY
Joined Mar 2005
3 posts

many thanks for the information.
yes after a short delay we do get water through the hot water tap.
we were just not sure that this was the way to do it. we were told that as soon as you switch the pump on it starts filling automatically, and obviousley we thought it was'nt working properly.
thanks for putting my mind to rest.

Wednesday, 9 March 2005

Discussion Archived

JACKY
Joined Mar 2005
3 posts

many thanks for the information.
yes after a short delay we do get water through the hot water tap.
we were just not sure that this was the way to do it. we were told that as soon as you switch the pump on it starts filling automatically, and obviousley we thought it was'nt working properly.
thanks for putting my mind to rest.

Wednesday, 9 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Clive
Joined Mar 2005
1 posts

Are you fanmilar with Carver Mk2 fitted with electric immersion heater?

Saturday, 12 March 2005

Discussion Archived

gary
Joined Mar 2002
2443 posts

The short answer is 'yes'...what's the problem??

Saturday, 12 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Ade
Joined Mar 2005
7 posts

Recently purchased a 1994 Abi Ace Harmony Caravan. Our previous caravan did not have hot and cold water, so today prior to our first trip at Easter tried out the hot water. This were our problems began ... cold water ran fine, pressure okay, hot water heated up but only a trickle from the kitchen and bathroom taps. Can anyone offer help of assistance to resolve this.... as would dearly love hot water on our first trip. Heres hoping and thanks.

Sunday, 13 March 2005

Discussion Archived

gary
Joined Mar 2002
2443 posts

A most common problem at this time of year and is caused by frost damaging the non-return valve in the cold water inlet to the heater. If the inlet is off-white in colour try taking it to bits and repositioning the tiny 'O' ring, if black the easiest way is to replace the whole fitting. On the black one the non-return valve is about 3" back behind the drain bung outside, fiddling around though here with a thin screwdriver with the pump running might free it... at least temporally, you can always try it?

The damage is due to frost freezing a little water that has drained down to this the lowest point and is the reason the drain bung should only be left loose in it's hole over winter so water can drain away.

Sunday, 13 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Ade
Joined Mar 2005
7 posts

Many thanks for the information, we had to change the valve, all is now working well.

Thursday, 17 March 2005

Discussion Archived

AndyCS4U
Joined Mar 2005
44 posts

Hi Gary, I noticed you mention you are able to supplie parts for the Cascade 2, does this include any parts such as the 240v elements? (both sizes) and how about the old MRK 1 cascade, do you have any parts for them?
Im interested for future reference when i next get a problem.

Caravan Man (Andy)

Saturday, 19 March 2005

Discussion Archived

Showing results 1 to 20 of 4052.


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